Thursday, April 9, 2015

A Jacquard Coco

Schnittchen Coco
I've been on a mission to find patterns with shoulders that fit me because they are the most difficult part of my body to fit. My shoulders are square and angled forward, and Burda's shoulders, for instance, never fit properly and require all sorts of adjustments. I figure if I can collect different types of shoulder blocks that fit, then I should be able to use them to adjust any pattern I like. That's the plan anyway.

Schnittchen Coco

Scnittchen's Malu Jacket's shoulders were spot on, but of course dolman sleeves are never as much of a struggle as set-in sleeves. So I was very curious to try the Coco Jacket for a fitted set-in jacket shoulder. Plus, it seemed like it could be a great staple pattern to have.  As it turns out, I am very pleased with the fit. The shoulders are square enough and have that forward tilt. I also really like that the sleeve is a two piece, so even though it is quite slim, it's very comfortable.

These were my alterations:

- Slight swayback adjustment (the pattern already has some shaping in the back).
- Shortened the sleeves a couple centimeters (the length was neither here nor there on me).
- Took in the side seams at the hips. This pattern has a lot more shaping than your usual boxy jacket, and I'm pretty straight up and down.

Schnittchen Coco

We took these pictures in a village named Créon in the Entre-Deux-Mers region (famous for its wine) near Bordeaux. The central plaza, called Bastide, with arches running all around is typical of the region. It was windy, as you can see, but so nice and sunny. I'm so happy spring is finally here!

So, the fabric... It is a cotton jacquard.  Pretty, right? But it frays so badly!

This is what happens pretty much as soon as you cut it, so I had to serge all the edges immediately. Even if you interface it, it frays. After I'd sewn on one of the sleeves, it pulled out partly from the seam and I had recut it and resew it entirely. It was a quite battle!

Here's what the wrong side of the fabric looks like:

I actually really like the way the wrong side looks because the colors seem more vibrant, and I considered using it as my right side. But I was concerned that all those threads would get caught on things, and this fabric was giving me enough of a hard time already. The right side is more subtle, but it's pretty too.

When I run into this much trouble as I'm making a garment, I tend to prepare for the outcome to be a disappointment. Does this happen to you too? I hate to give up though, so I never leave a garment unfinished and I always finish what I'm working on before I allow myself to start something new. As it turns out, it was worth it because I really like this little jacket after all. And I also know this basic pattern is a great staple that I can use over and over again.

Schnittchen Coco