Thursday, March 12, 2015

Spring Coat

Burdastyle 08/2014-102

Spring is definitely on its way. Afternoons can be quite warm when the sun is out, but mornings and evenings tend to be much cooler here throughout spring, so I wanted a lighter weight wool coat in a soft color. And by the way, this is my second green coat!

Burdastyle 08/2014-102

The pattern is from the August 2014 issue of Burdastyle. I was drawn to the oversized pockets and the curved drop shoulders. Drop shoulders have a reputation for making broad shoulders, such as my own, look even bigger. Maybe they do, but I like them anyway. I think in this case the roundness has a softening effect.

Burdastyle 08/2014-102
 I made very few alterations. I raised the pockets by about 3 cm because they were really low, reduced the front overlap a bit because I like my buttons, or snaps in this case, not to be too far from the edge (about 1,2 cm works well for a coat, I think).

Burdastyle 08/2014-102
The pattern features a wide pleat at center back, but it is intended for a more lightweight cotton fabric. I thought my mid-weight wool would be too bulky for the pleat, so I removed the center back seam entirely.
I really like the seaming detail at the back shoulder, running down the sleeve. It has no function other than adding interest to the back view. I interfaced that seam because it worried me that it was cut on the bias, so I figured it could use some support, and it turned out fine.



The fabric is a kind of tweed that looks like a solid, but up close you can see that there are variations between different shades of light green, going from a pale chartreuse to a more earthy beigey green.
I love those bronze snaps!



The paisley lining is a rather substantial viscose twill I've had in my stash for several years. I didn't intend to line this coat with it, but these two fabrics are so happy together, it was made to be! Interesting optical effect here: I look armless, Venus de Milo style ;)


I used this tutorial for sewing the hem/facing/lining junction. Such a great technique! I highly recommend it.

The pockets are lined edge to edge in the same fabric and sewn on by hand with tiny fell stitches. It may not be as sturdy as machine sewing, but I like the sleek look. Pockets and fronts are stabilized with a soft weft-insertion interfacing.


So this is really a transition piece. I feel like sewing with the season this year, rather than ahead of it which is my usual strategy. This way I can wear the things I make immediately!






41 comments:

  1. Gorgeous! I hadn't taken any notice of this pattern in the magazine until now. I think it looks so much better without the back pleat. I also love the way you sewed the snaps on - I usually try to hide my stitching completely, but the way you made it visible really adds interest!

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    1. Thank you so much Gail! Sewing all the way through two layers of fabric also makes the snaps more secure. If you ever want to try doing this, I recommend basting the snaps on first, then it's easier to concentrate on sewing very regular visible stitches.

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  2. This is so fabulous. And your workmanship looks amazing. I also feel drop shoulders make shoulders look wider - I'm broad shouldered too, and have forever tried to disguise this - however, I also think that there is appeal in the boxier, wider shouldered look right now. Othewise, we wouldn't be drawn to it, and why I've also gone with so many drop shoulder items in the past year! I think this looks fabulous on you. Classic too.

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    1. Thank you so much, Debbie! I agree that big round shoulders look modern, and they're not at all agressive like 80s shoulders.

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  3. Wow, the quality of that sewing is amazing! I find coat-making in solid fabrics quite hard but that really is exquisite.

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    1. Thank you Jenny! the fabric is not a true solid though, and it has that tweedy texture which I find really forgiving compared to smooth surfaced wools.

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  4. What a fabulous coat. I love the bright lining, it looks perfect for Spring.

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    1. Thank you Sam! I thought I wanted a much more subtle, solid lining, but this combo made me smile :)

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  5. Beautiful coat, the finish is exquisite! Laüra in Bordeaux too x

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    1. Hi Laüra! I love hearing from fellow Bordelais ;)

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  6. Your workmanship is exquisite, it really is! That's such a beautiful,,classic coat, I love it. x

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    1. thank you so much Jane! So glad you like it :)

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  7. Such a gorgeous coat Sara. The lining is really special and your hand-stitched pockets are beautiful!

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    1. Thank you Caroline. I surprised myself by choosing that lining. It's pretty wild in real life!

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  8. Stunning. Love your details...the pocket finish, the snaps. This coat has such great lines!

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  9. What a great coat. I love the large scale of it: the pockets, the snaps, the dropped shoulders. And the lined pockets sewn on with fell stitches--what a great idea.

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    1. Thank you Patricia! Yes, I was definitely going for oversized everything here :)

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  10. So lovely. Funny to my eyes it looks mustard but I am reading this on my phone! I love the pockets too. You look so chic!

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    1. Thank you Sarah! I'm not surprised that it can look mustardy. there's some earthy brown thrown in with that green :)

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  11. This coat is sheer perfection and you are right about that lining - completely made for each other. I don't think the drop shoulders make your shoulders look broad at all and in fact the lines of the seams are really effective and interesting. Enjoy!

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    1. I think the seaming in the back does have a bit of a streamlining effect. Thank you, Jillian!

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    2. I think the seaming in the back does have a bit of a streamlining effect. Thank you, Jillian!

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  12. Just beautiful - so crisp and lovely and the proportions are perfect. And the colour - I'm swooning!

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  13. Really gorgeous colour and like everyone else am amazed by your workmanship. Lovely, lovely coat!

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  14. Ton manteau est splendide et te va très bien!
    Bravo!

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  15. This coat IS gorgeous .... A true classic ! The perfect length and fullness to make it versatile and easy to wear yet stylish. I love it!!!

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  16. So pretty! I love love love the seaming!

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    1. Thank you! I've noticed Burda has this type of seaming on a few other coat and jacket patterns. I do think it's a nice feature.

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  17. I love your blog! This coat is so well made and looks expensive. The drop shoulders line is perfect for this coat!

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    1. Thank you so much, I really appreciate it!

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  18. Hello there! This looks great on you! Am about to cut into this myself. Do you have any thought on the bust dart?
    Kind regards
    Portia

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    1. Hi! Glad you like it. I'm not sure what you'd like to know about the bust dart. I don't remember making any changes to it. This was a while ago.

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