Thursday, March 12, 2015

Spring Coat

Burdastyle 08/2014-102

Spring is definitely on its way. Afternoons can be quite warm when the sun is out, but mornings and evenings tend to be much cooler here throughout spring, so I wanted a lighter weight wool coat in a soft color. And by the way, this is my second green coat!

Burdastyle 08/2014-102

The pattern is from the August 2014 issue of Burdastyle. I was drawn to the oversized pockets and the curved drop shoulders. Drop shoulders have a reputation for making broad shoulders, such as my own, look even bigger. Maybe they do, but I like them anyway. I think in this case the roundness has a softening effect.

Burdastyle 08/2014-102
 I made very few alterations. I raised the pockets by about 3 cm because they were really low, reduced the front overlap a bit because I like my buttons, or snaps in this case, not to be too far from the edge (about 1,2 cm works well for a coat, I think).

Burdastyle 08/2014-102
The pattern features a wide pleat at center back, but it is intended for a more lightweight cotton fabric. I thought my mid-weight wool would be too bulky for the pleat, so I removed the center back seam entirely.
I really like the seaming detail at the back shoulder, running down the sleeve. It has no function other than adding interest to the back view. I interfaced that seam because it worried me that it was cut on the bias, so I figured it could use some support, and it turned out fine.

The fabric is a kind of tweed that looks like a solid, but up close you can see that there are variations between different shades of light green, going from a pale chartreuse to a more earthy beigey green.
I love those bronze snaps!

The paisley lining is a rather substantial viscose twill I've had in my stash for several years. I didn't intend to line this coat with it, but these two fabrics are so happy together, it was made to be! Interesting optical effect here: I look armless, Venus de Milo style ;)

I used this tutorial for sewing the hem/facing/lining junction. Such a great technique! I highly recommend it.

The pockets are lined edge to edge in the same fabric and sewn on by hand with tiny fell stitches. It may not be as sturdy as machine sewing, but I like the sleek look. Pockets and fronts are stabilized with a soft weft-insertion interfacing.

So this is really a transition piece. I feel like sewing with the season this year, rather than ahead of it which is my usual strategy. This way I can wear the things I make immediately!