Thursday, January 29, 2015

Birthday Dress - Vogue 1422

Vogue 1422, Tracy Reese

My daughter asked me to make her a dress for her birthday and I was overjoyed, because really, it's so much more fun to sew pretty dresses than my usual boring basics. I would sew more for her if she'd let me, but I have learned that she'll only wear the clothes she has specifically requested. And the things she does ask for, she tends to wear a lot. She picked the pattern, Vogue 1422, a Tracy Reese design. She was attracted to the classic style which reminded her of Audrey Hepburn. She also picked the fabric, a silk blend cloqué in very bright shades of pink, shot with silver threads. She has always loved pink and I love that she hasn't outgrown it!

The pattern is designed with an organza underskirt in addition to the lining. I skipped the underskirt because, even though the fabric is rather outrageous, this is meant to be an everyday dress. She'll wear it to school or wherever she likes and it needs to be washable. The pattern also calls for different types of lining for bodice and skirt. I lined everything in Bemberg.

Vogue 1422, Tracy Reese

When I first muslined the bodice, it looked like a shapeless sack. I had to completely reshape it and ended up making three muslins. Although she is tall, my daughter has a petite torso and the bodice needed to be shortened a lot. The pattern has lengthen/shorten lines at the waist, but I had to take tucks in the upper chest and upper back as well, and also take in the shoulder seams. The back waist needed to be taken in quite a bit, and after playing around with the back waist darts, I ended up drafting princess seams instead, which also solved another issue: gaping armholes. You might spot the princess seam here:

Here's what the wrong side of the fabric looks like. It is backed with very fine synthetic threads that melt at the touch of an iron! Also this fabric frays like crazy, so I had to serge all the edges as soon as I cut them.

It feels so good to be sewing and blogging again after a long break (I was very busy). I'm thinking of spring now and planning some seasonal transition projects.

Last year I sewed her a shirt, which you can see here if you like : Birthday shirt